Q&A

The buzzword among a certain segment of food enthusiasts is to eat as the locals do. To this end, some seek out those locals who obviously get around the most: public-utility drivers. Here in the Philippines, I’m not too sure; I should try it in Cebu one of these days and hope they don’t point me to the nearest tuslob buwâ.

Until then, I am more interested in hearing how those who grow, catch, or forage for my food prepare/cook the stuff that are their livelihood. They should know, right?

Still, when the shellfish vendor shared how they prepared/cooked anínikád (plicate conch) at home, I could not help but flinch.

“You mean to say you don’t wash them first?”

“In seawater, sure. Like these were.”

“And then?”

“And then you cook them.” Silly, I half-expected her to add. But I wanted to leave nothing to the imagination. I should have been a lawyer.

“With–?”

“Nothing! Just put them in the pan with the heat on low. Leave them there until they emerge on their own — that’s it. Are you buying or not?”

“Taray mo naman, ’te. Give me a Caltex. Will it be okay if I give them a quick wash?”

“I dunno; never tried it. That’ll be ₱25. Tell me how it goes.”

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“Anínikád?” my mother had asked. “For dinner?”

I said nothing, just handed her a safety pin. Watched as she poked at the meat hanging out of its shell, held it by the foot and dunked it in the sauce. And then on to the next shell. Did it occur to her how effortless it all was? But why should it? It’s easy to take for granted that food should be this convenient (and good, besides), and to point out when it isn’t. That, my friends, is how it goes.

Stir-Fried Anínikád

If you have health concerns regarding the method outlined below, by all means brush/wash the shells as you usually would, although I can not guarantee the same result as described following. Good luck.

• 750 grams anínikád (plicate conch)
• small knob ginger, sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 medium red onion, sliced
• 1 red finger chili, chopped
• spring onion greens, chopped

For the sauce:
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon Chinese cooking wine
• ½ tablespoon soy sauce
• ½ tablespoon sriracha or any hot sauce
• 1 teaspoon honey or sugar
• 2 tablespoons warm water
• salt and pepper, to taste
• dash of sesame oil

1. Place shells in covered pan over very low heat. Do not stir. Wait until the mollusks have emerged (peeked out, more like) before taking off the heat; a few will not — those you can discard. Set the rest aside.
2. In a bowl, combine all ingredients for the sauce. Set aside.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in pan over medium heat. Add ginger and sauté until aromatic, then stir in onion and chili and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook for another minute, then add shells and your prepared sauce. Stir to coat shells with sauce and cook until heated through. Season to taste, transfer to plate, and garnish with spring onion greens. Serve hot.