The problem with working from a recipe is when one lacks a frame of reference, in this case, first-hand experience. From what I had read about scallion pancakes, they are supposed to be flaky. Well, I know scallions, and I know flaky — how hard could it be? After trying three different recipes, none yielding anything near that textural profile, I was about to call it quits when I wondered if Kenji had anything to say on the subject.
Anyone with more than a passing interest in cooking owes it to himself to check out Serious Eats’ The Food Lab, with its mission of “unraveling the mysteries of home cooking through science.” Unfortunately, even Kenji’s version was not as flaky as I had imagined, although it was by far the most improved. Or perhaps I was being too hard on myself? In any case, I have decided to wait until I have tasted the real McCoy before I make any more.
But I did realize something. Whether fish ball or scallion pancake, it is all about the sauce. Or, in this case, the condiment. I am referring to Chinese black vinegar, which makes even mediocre scallion pancakes (as I suspect mine were) come alive. Made from glutinous rice, its color and taste is very close to that of commercial-grade balsamic vinegar. It is what I use in stir-fried cabbage (now a frequent dish on our table). Note to self: the bottle is almost empty.
See how Kenji’s scallion pancake looks so different from the one pictured at the head of this post? It was as simple as using more oil during frying for even(!) browning. Still, the pancake was more chewy than flaky. But when the black vinegar hit my tongue, I could not help but smile.
And then Ma just had to spoil the fun with the news that a ring of Chinese factories have been found manufacturing fake (and allegedly toxic) brand-name sauces, including Nestlé and Lee Kum Kee. “How can you be sure of that vinegar?” she said.
I could not. Can not. I can only hope I get something like what the English douse their beloved fish and chips with.
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