10 September 2014

Bloody good

Beef sinangag

Some decades ago our family hosted a German exchange student. She was as Nordic as they came, but she was Muslim — although the hijab (headscarf) she wore looked more like a statement of fashion than of faith. In all other respects she conducted herself just like any Western teenager.

She also took over my room, which I kind of resented at first. I slept on the living room couch, which wasn’t much of an inconvenience then as it would be now, given that I was out carousing most nights and hardly seemed to need any sleep (oh, to be young again!). Looking back, I was not much of a “brother” to her; we barely spoke.

As for dietary restrictions, there was only the expected stipulation: no pork. This did not turn out to be as big a problem as anticipated. She was not finicky about food and ate whatever was served, trusting that we would not feed her anything that would go against her religion.

And so we did. Whose depraved idea was that, anyway? After we told the fräulein that she had just enthusiastically consumed a bowl of pork blood stew (dinuguan), she stiffened… then smiled. I don’t know what we were expecting, if we were even thinking that far ahead. A jihad, perhaps? But a smile! Ach! Those Germans, I tell you, they’re so damn civil.

If you are the type who recoils at the thought of blood in your victuals, you’re hardly alone. My grandmother refused to prepare anything with blood in it. In my case, I don’t eat blood-based food unless it’s made at home — ours only, thank you. So it’s not the ick factor, just that, well, who knows what mystery ingredient is camouflaged underneath all that blood?

If only it weren’t so good. Like the soup pictured here: beef strips in a gingery blood-enriched broth with pechay (bok choy), Chinese (Napa) cabbage, and bamboo shoots. My parents fondly call it sinangag while some friends refer to it as bas-oy (which I think is a whole other dish, but never mind). This is weekend comfort food for us — mainly because we only get freshly slaughtered beef on Saturdays.

Beef in blood broth with bok choy, Chinese cabbage, & bamboo shoot

There’s just something about the addition of fresh blood to soup that makes it taste the way it does, that is to say, exquisite. I remember a similar mode of preparation involving free-range chicken in Amy Tan’s wonderful The Hundred Secret Senses, which is about all I recall of the book. I believe the words “buttery rich” and “velvety” were used. See for yourself. Unless you are Muslim, because beef may be considered halal, but blood — never. Don’t be evil. We already have the Germans for that.*

Beef Sinangag

You can ask your butcher for fresh ox blood; it is usually free. To ensure freshness, refrigerate until using. Lessen the amount of ginger if desired. If you don't have beef stock, a bouillon cube will do just as well. Regular (round) cabbage can be substituted for the Chinese cabbage, or mustard greens for the bok choy. The bamboo shoot is a must (for my family).

  • 250 grams beef tenderloin, cut into 1″ strips
  • 2 tablespoons oil

  • ¼ cup fresh ginger, julienned
  • 3 cloves garlic, julienned
  • 2 medium red onions, sliced
  • 2 spring onions (stalk only), sliced
  • 2 finger chilies, chopped
  • 4-5 cups beef broth

  • 2 heads sliced bok choy, cut into 1″ pieces
  • 1 head small Chinese (Napa) cabbage, cut into 1″ pieces
  • 1 cup shredded bamboo shoot, parboiled
  • 1 cup fresh ox blood

  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce
  • 1 teaspoon white sugar
  • salt and black pepper, to taste
  • chopped spring onion greens, to garnish
  1. Sauté ginger pieces in hot oil until they release their aroma.
  2. Add sliced beef and cook until the meat releases its juices and loses its raw color. Add fish sauce and sauté for a minute more.
  3. Stir in onions and chilies, wait until the onions turn translucent, then add garlic.
  4. When the garlic pieces turn golden, add broth. Let simmer until beef is fork tender.
  5. Add sugar, salt, and pepper. Check for taste. Add more if desired.
  6. Stir in bamboo shoot, cook for 5 minutes, then strain in the ox blood. Keep stirring to prevent the blood from clumping together.
  7. Add the bok choy and cabbage. Cook for another minute or until the vegetables are half-done.
  8. Garnish with chopped spring onion and serve hot.

* You know I’m kidding, right? «

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