A peeve & some finds

The label said “pearl mushrooms.” I’m an idiot when it comes to things mycological, so feel free to correct me when I say these are actually beech mushrooms, also known as clamshell or shimeji. They are native to East Asia (China, Mongolia, Japan, and Korea).

Anyway, Metro Ayala’s produce section looked good last week (I went on a Wednesday), with lots of herbs and greens, although still no limes. Their French beans looked fresh (not always the case), and so were the basil (in pots, but expensive; also, the selection was a mix of sweet and anise, with no distinction made, so smell first to be sure). Another curious item were the sunflower greens, which I had never encountered before. A bit pricey at ₱150 for 100 grams, I bought a pack after surreptitiously nibbling on a sprout (crunchy and sweet).

But more on that next time. While I’m on the topic of Metro Ayala, here’s a sign in their meat section that has been bugging me for some time now:

Whatever “egg yoke” is, I don’t want my fowl anywhere near it. Or would that be the yoke Jesus was referring to when he said, “For my yoke is over-easy and my burden is light”? Kidding. Is there a prize for pointing out this Easter egg of sorts to Metro management? On her part, my friend Therese wondered if someone just pulled those quotes out of his butt (not that she used that term). Well, I’ve got news for her. That first quote turns out to be from the Reverend Samuel Parkes Cadman (1864-1936), the second from writer Arnold Glasow (1905-1998), while the last (the one which Therese had a problem with) comes from actress Salma Hayek! Where are Auguste Escoffier and M.F.K. Fisher when you need them? BTW, Shakespeare has Lucentio say to Tranio in The Taming of the Shrew, “’Tis hatched, and shall be so,” but it’s not in reference to egg.

Moving on. What do you do with French beans and mushrooms? A stir-fry, of course! If only the supply side were less erratic — and in the case of the mushrooms, I can’t see why it should, it’s not like they’re wild-harvested — we would be seeing more of the dish, and then some. It was that good, the crunch of the haricots verts contrasting nicely with the soft, meaty bite of the mushrooms (they almost made the bacon superfluous). I thought twice about adding butter towards the end (more fat!), but just a little actually brought the whole thing together. If you’re looking for a vegetable dish to serve at your next party, you can’t go wrong with this. Maximum flavor for minimal effort; the familiar yoked, as it were, with the exotic — what’s not to like?

French Beans & Beech Mushrooms Stir-Fry

To prepare beans, remove tips and slice in half. Blanch in boiling water with a teaspoon of vinegar, 2 minutes, then remove and soak in iced water to prevent further cooking. To prepare mushrooms, cut along the base of their stems and brush away any surface dirt; do not wash. Omit bacon and bacon fat (use olive oil), and substitute vegetable stock for chicken broth for a vegetarian dish.

• ½ cup French green beans (see notes above)
• ½ cup beech mushrooms (see notes above)
• 5 rashers bacon, coarsely chopped


• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 small red onion, halved and sliced thinly
• 1 teaspoon minced ginger
• 1 finger chili, minced


• 4 tablespoons chicken broth
• 2 tablespoons Chinese cooking wine
• 1½ tablespoons light soy sauce
• pinch of sugar
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• grated nutmeg
• salt and black pepper, to taste

1. In a bowl, combine chicken broth, Chinese cooking wine, soy sauce, and sugar. Set aside.
2. Start the bacon on a cold skillet. Set skillet over medium to low heat and let bacon fry in their own fat until browned. Remove bacon (set aside) and some of the fat, leaving 2 tablespoons in the pan.
3. Add onions to the pan and sauté until soft and translucent. Stir in ginger, garlic, and finger chili, followed shortly by the beech mushrooms. Sauté for 2-3 minutes before adding the green beans, then stir for a minute more or until mixture is quite dry.
4. Pour in your prepared sauce, kick the heat up a notch, and cook, stirring occasionally, until only a third of the liquid remains. Add butter and a bit of grated nutmeg into the dish, season to taste, and give it a few quick stirs to coat vegetables evenly with the sauce. Serve immediately.