It doesn’t have to be that way

Hungry and irritable, I made my way to the ship’s canteen. I berated myself for being too lazy to make tuna sandwich earlier that morning, fully aware that boat trips always made me peckish. Now I was confronted with a choice between inún-unán (fish poached in vinegar) and breaded fried pork chop, both of which did not really appeal to me.

The pork won, but I lost. It was tough, bland, and had no fat whatsoever by way of consolation. I wasn’t even surprised. When I see the words “pork chop” on a menu, I have to make a conscious effort to expunge the image of stiff, dried-out meat from my mind. I know I could always ask if it’s any good, but I dunno. I don’t hear enough people complaining (or complaining loudly enough), so that partly explains all those mediocre breaded and/or fried pork chops out there.

Don’t get me wrong. I love pork chop, especially when breaded, then fried. It’s actually one of the easiest pork dishes to make. The problem lies in the way the cuts are sliced — that is, too thinly. I don’t know about where you live, but here butchers slice pork chops really thin — about a quarter of an inch — which practically guarantees doom to the dish. Have the meat cut to specification — at least three-quarters of an inch thick (the ones shown here are a full inch) and have the skin removed while you’re at it.

The nice thing about thick chops is that it considerably lessens the chances of tough, dried-out meat. It takes no more than four minutes (per side) for the breading to turn a deep, golden brown, so it makes no sense to fry past that stage, leaving the meat within moist and tender.

Is it really that easy? Well, kind of. Lately I have taken to following my version of a “best practice” when it comes to meat and poultry. It doesn’t take much more time and really makes a difference later on.

1. Be specific. Talk to your butcher. Make it clear how you want the meat prepared. Whether it’s pork chop or belly, my suki knows to always cut it at least thrice as thick as his standard cut.
2. To wash… or not to wash? FYI, the USDA recommends against washing meat, saying it increases the risk of bacterial cross-contamination. It goes on to state that “some of the bacteria are so tightly attached [to the meat] that you could not remove them no matter how many times you washed.” Honestly, I only wash meat when there’s a lot of blood and/or gunk on it, but if it lets you sleep more soundly at night, go ahead and wash yours — twice, even. Never did you any harm before, no?
3. Pat meat dry. Sounds unnecessary, but this is very important. This will not only prevent ice from forming on the meat if/when you freeze it, but it also helps seasonings to stick better to the surface. Better yet, less surface moisture enables meat to sear quicker and better.
4. Season now. As in now now. Even if you don’t plan to use it immediately, i.e, storing it in the freezer. It gives the meat time to absorb the flavors and you can use the meat as soon as it thaws out. Also, I believe that marinated meat defrosts faster than unmarinated (now there’s an idea for a science project). Just plain salt will do, but I go whole hog. Stick to dry rub, though; soy sauce and vinegar (especially vinegar) may dry out the meat in the long run. I use a combination of 1 tablespoon sea salt, 1 tablespoon granulated garlic, and 2 teaspoons ground black pepper for every kilo of meat. You can also add cayenne, smoked paprika, chili (powder and/or flakes), dried oregano, and/or dried rosemary.
5. If you are freezing the meat, wrap in single-use portions. They’ll freeze and defrost more quickly — that is known.

And since we’re talking pork chop, here’s an additional tip: To prevent the cuts from curling up (it’s called “buckling”), make a few vertical incisions on the fatty part of each chop — do not cut all the way into the meat — and it will stay flat as it cooks. (You should not have this problem if your cuts are thick, BTW, but why take the chance?)

Tip: How to Prevent Pork Chops from Buckling

And on to the recipe. Somebody please hand the cooks at Roble Shipping a copy. And maybe that of the braised purple cabbage, too. They really go well together.

Breaded Pork Chops

The road to tender, juicy pork chops starts with your butcher. Have the meat sliced at least three quarters (¾) of an inch thick and the skin removed. Cut a few vertical slices into the fatty portion to prevent the chops from curling up in the pan. To fry, use an oil with a high smoke point, like sunflower or canola. Lard works just as well.

• 1 kilo pork chops, prepared as per notes above
• 2 cups oil, for frying

For the rub:
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 tablespoon granulated garlic (or garlic powder)
• 2 teaspoons ground black pepper

For breading:
• flour, as needed
• 2 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon water
• breadcrumbs, as needed
• salt and pepper, to taste

1. Pat pork chops dry with paper towels, then season with salt, granulated garlic, and ground black pepper. Let sit for 2 hours, if desired.
2. In a shallow bowl, mix flour with some salt and pepper. In another bowl, beat together eggs and water. Pour breadcrumbs into a third bowl. Dredge pork chops in seasoned flour, shake off excess powder, dip in beaten egg, and coat evenly with breadcrumbs.
3. Heat oil in pan. Add breaded chops, but do not overcrowd pan. Reduce heat to medium and fry chops for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until an even golden brown. Stand each chop on its fatty side as well to crisp up the top layer of fat. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.