In which tenderloin saves the day

I always keep pork tenderloin in stock for when I am pressed for time or simply feeling lazy, yet still want people to think I have worked hours on a dish. Chinese steamed rice is a favorite, as is bistek-style, with soy sauce, kalamansi juice, and loads of sweet onion.

With time to kill the other day, I decided to try my hand at American-style barbecue. Most of that time was taken up marinating the meat overnight in a mixture of brewed coffee, apple cider vinegar, mustard, and molasses. Grilling itself took no time at all: 7 minutes on one side, 6 on the other, and 5 more minutes after being slathered with barbecue sauce, the whole time with the lid closed. If you think that is not enough time to cook the meat, think again. I erred on the side of caution and left it to rest inside for a few more minutes and it came out overcooked. Otherwise, the result was quite good: tender, juicy, and with a slightly smoky flavor. Will I do it again? No. Barbecue just ain’t the same without fat.

Let us keep things saucy, then. That there is my take on straccetti, inspired by Chef Donal Skehan’s chicken version, with shiitake mushrooms instead of porcini, and haricots verts (French beans) in lieu of arugula. Takes less time to cook than barbecue (even lesser since you don’t have to stoke up coal). Again, it pays to keep in mind that tenderloin cooks pretty fast, so do not slice it too thin, either. And make plenty of sauce! People will think you have slaved over this dish, it looks sooo classy. For the price of a two-piece ChickenJoy, that’s hard to beat.

Straccetti di Maiale

To prepare French beans, snip off ends and blanch in boiling salted water with a dash of vinegar, about 3 minutes, then remove to a bowl of cold water. When preparing mushrooms, do not wash — simply dust off any surface dirt. Remove stems and set aside for use in the broth/sauce.

• 500 grams pork tenderloin, sliced into ½″ rounds
• salt and pepper
• flour, for dusting


• bunch of French beans, blanched


• olive oil
• ½ yellow onion, sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 4-5 fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced (save stems)


• ¾ cup white wine
• ½ cup chicken stock
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• 3 tablespoons butter, cold
• spritz of lemon juice
• Parmesan cheese, shaved

1. Season sliced meat with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour and shake off excess powder. Fry in olive oil, 2-3 minutes on both sides. Remove from pan and set aside.
2. Add a little olive oil to pan (if too dry). Sauté shiitake (including stems) for 4-5 minutes, then add onion and garlic. Sauté for another 2 minutes.
3. Pour white wine into pan and let boil for a minute before adding chicken stock and sugar. Reduce sauce by half, remove mushroom stems (discard), then return meat to pan, stirring to coat evenly. Add cold butter and lemon juice. Whisk until butter is completely melted and sauce emulsifies.
4. Season to taste. Serve with blanched beans and some shaved Parmesan. Drizzle with extra olive oil, if desired.