All-around

I make no bones about finding Pa’s tastes occasionally weird. How many octogenarians (and by this I mean those healthy in all respects that count) still watch Tom and Jerry, much less the entire Looney Tunes catalogue? Then there are the movies of Aki Kaurismäki, which may defy your idea of what comedy is — he likes those, too. The rest, which I shall unfairly lump together as “that rubbish regurgitated by Cinema One,” is what leaves me scratching my head.

You might think that I like poking fun at my father (and parents in general), but really, I can not appreciate him enough. Busted pipe, leaky roof, blown fuse, fuzzy cable reception, clogged sink or toilet, 110-volt appliances — we interrupt his TV viewing to have those seen to. He reminds me of Tito Mac, my friend Ophelia’s dad, whose name is not really that, but if you are a certain age you’ll figure out why when I add that it’s short for MacGyver.

Of what practical use will I be if I get to be their age? I hope someone will have invented a fail-safe flush by then, because that’s what always breaks down around here, and learning how to fix it is definitely not on my bucket list. Who knows, though? I only started cooking in my 30s.

At least homemade food will never go out of favor. Maybe someone down the line will look back wistfully at the labor of love glimpsed at here. It will not tell the whole story for sure, but what does? The pang of memory (and loss) is often brought on unbidden by snatches of sound or sight or scent, rarely by extended montage set to a weepy score. Perhaps my cooking will be remembered as better than it is. If it has anything to do with grilled fish, you can actually thank the aromatic paste, but I will take the compliment, anyway. That’s because my father does not quite appreciate that the paste (see an earlier version of the recipe here) gives the fish a fully-cooked sear while leaving it moist and tender inside; as with fried fish, he wants it well-done, i.e., to the point of dehydration. He is not so much weird as stubborn in that regard, like the Kaurismäki characters he finds so funny. I wonder if he’s aware of the irony.

Asian Spice Paste

Feel free to use more of any spice or herb that you fancy. Powdered turmeric can be substituted for fresh. Refrigerated, this paste can be stored for up to a week (or longer). Great as an all-around marinade, or for flavoring stews like curry and tinunu-an.

• 1 large knob ginger, peeled
• 1 large knob turmeric, peeled
• 5 cloves garlic, peeled
• 3 bell peppers, deseeded
• 1 large onion, skinned
• 2 lemongrass bulbs
• 3 spring onions
• 2 medium tomatoes, deseeded
• 2 red finger chilies
• 2 teaspoons black peppercorns
• bunch of cilantro


• 1 tablespoon lime or kalamansi juice
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• water


• oil, for frying
• salt and pepper, to taste

1. Chop herbs and spices roughly and blitz in a blender or food processor with lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, salt, vegetable oil, and 2 tablespoons of water. If mixture is too dry, add more water, a tablespoon at a time.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a pan. Sauté spice mixture until thickened and browned, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Let cool and store in refrigerator until using.