Gizzard — what comes first to mind when you hear that word? If you ask me, two: “chicken” and “tough,” but not necessarily in that order. It is of interest how batiko’on is often skewered alongside liver/heart as served at Pinoy barbecue stands. Why do you think that is? For textural contrast? Or to serve as filler?
No one complains that air is invisible: it is what it is. And so with gizzard for being tough. I nibble at the chewy edges and hand the rest to the dogs that frequent the barbecue plaza. At home, I could never quite decide at which juncture to add it to adobo, so it usually goes in when liver does, at the tail-end of cooking. Then I fish it out of the pan for Palang.
In a way, I have my pet to thank for making me reconsider gizzard (she was obviously bored with her usual fare, and had taken to begging at the table, more than the usual). Also, something I once read in the comment section of an old MarketManila post, in which a reader had suggested steeping and then boiling gizzards in vinegar to make them tender. How tender? Very, as it turned out, they could have passed for liver (how’s that for irony?). “Hey, Palang, would you rather have… hmmm, let’s see– Oi, here’s some of that beef steak from lunch! How about a swap, huh? Good girl!”
Now that I have read up on gizzard, I finally appreciate how it needs to be tough and muscular. According to its wiki, “this specialized stomach is used for grinding up food, often aided by particles of stone or grit.” Buying them pre-cleaned means we are a step removed from that messy reality. Maybe if some of that dirt gets purposely left behind, it will have people thinking: Of course — it’s what this thing does, after all! You gotta respect that.
That said, buy the cleanest, freshest gizzard you can find. Rinse and steep in enough vinegar to just about cover them. I should tell you I lost track of time and only remembered three hours later, but I think an hour should be fine. To cook, heat a couple tablespoons of oil in a pan — I used a clay pot — sauté as much crushed garlic as you feel comfortable using, until golden, then pour in gizzards and vinegar. At this point, do not stir or cover; leave to simmer until the smell of vinegar dissipates. Add a bay leaf or two, plus some whole black peppercorns. Cover and turn heat down a bit. Check/stir occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, then add salt and soy sauce to taste (also, a little sugar if you lean that way). If too dry, add more oil (if you have lard, so much the better). Serve hot or cold, although if not serving immediately, you will definitely need more oil so that the gizzards do not dry out and toughen up a bit as they sit.
So, who’s in charge of the cordials? This dish is worth a toast and Tanduay comes to mind.
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