30 March 2017

Tell it like it is, then put sugar on mine

Dansalan/gabi (taro) corm

With no one to cook for last week, I decided on takeout pork sinigang (sour soup) from Andok’s. I had a dim recollection of liking their version of the dish at a Tacloban branch many years ago.

Well, I was in for a reality check. A few pieces of cardboard-thin pork belly swam with radish, three slices of okra, a wedge of tomato, and a ginormous finger chili in soup excessively thickened with dansalan (a species of taro). No tangkong (water spinach) or batong (yard beans). Or any hint of acidity, for that matter. What was I expecting for ₱79? For starters, how about a dish that bore some resemblance to the one pictured on the menu board?

As for the consistency of the soup, I’m aware that some folks like it gooey. But if (like me) you prefer watery sinigang, there are other ways to use any leftover taro. In this case, caramelized chips, so now you’ve got a snack as well.

Caramelized dansalan (taro) chips

Peel taro and steep in water to prevent oxidation (read: browning), also to get rid of the slime. Slice into uniform thinness — this is where a mandoline comes in handy — and rinse in several changes of water until water is no longer cloudy from the starch. Drain, then get a large tray and arrange the slices in rows between paper towels to remove moisture.

Dust each slice with white sugar. I suggest you do it on only one side, else the chips will be too sweet, but it’s really up to you. Shake off any excess sugar. Heat three or four cups of vegetable oil to 350℉ and fry the chips in batches, turning occasionally. The moment they stop bubbling, they are done, even if they don’t look it (they will brown some more once out of the oil). Transfer to cooking rack over a tray (to catch oil drips), making sure to place each chip separately or they will stick together. Let cool completely before serving.

This is a simple but satisfying snack, taught to me by a former help. You can even justify the sugar on account of taro having a low glycemic index. ;-p Andok’s, on the other hand, has no excuse for their sorry sinigang.

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