Soup again, anyone? That was the thirty-peso question presented by the “Caltex” (roughly a kilogram) of balisa’a. Cooked Manila clams release an intensely flavored brine that takes well to dilution, hence soup, which happens to be a way of extending the dish (not much meat in them shells, see), preferably with watery and sweetish sikwa (loofah or sponge gourd; nutritious too).
So what’s the problem? One word: sum-ol. It’s one of those Visayan words relating to the palate (another being langigngig) that conveys too much of a muchness (the former in quantity or frequency, the latter in richness) — good, but beside the point: Enough. Already.
Okay, so I’m exaggerating; I just felt like a change, and I wasn’t sorry I did. The nice thing about playing with food is that when you get lucky, you get lucky in a big way. I am not even sure where I got the idea from (cable TV, probably), but this one is definitely a keeper. I’m talking stir-fried drunken clams. Quick and simple for something that packs so much flavor, it takes more time to brush-clean those clams — and you would be well-advised to make sure you clean them well because you will be licking the sauce from every surface, it’s that good.
Grate a tablespoon’s worth each of ginger and garlic. Sauté in a tablespoon of hot oil until aromatic, then stir in chopped spring onion and finger chili (use more if you like it spicy). Add cleaned clams, followed by a good splash of Chinese cooking wine; if you like a bit of fire show, set alight, otherwise let the alcohol boil off, about 30 seconds, before covering your pan. Check after a minute or two; the balisa’a will have cooked once their shells open. Meanwhile, mix a quarter cup of water with a teaspoon each of hon-dashi, oyster sauce, and sugar; pour into pan and stir until the sauce thickens to your liking. Season, drizzle with sesame oil, and serve immediately. I hope you cooked enough rice.
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