Perfect combination

It had been a while since I saw balisa’a (Manila clam) at the market with any regularity. On a recent trip to Tacloban, we decided to try out Seafood & Ribs Warehouse Restaurant in nearby Palo. The chow was good, if not memorable, the lone disappointment being the clam soup, overly salty and with a sickly sheen of grease on the surface. Also, expensive.

Some months back, I came upon this show (Fun Taiwan, I think) where the host made clam soup with sikwa (loofah or sponge gourd). Now that struck me as odd, although we use loofah primarily in soups, whether by itself or with misua (better). This particular combination just wasn’t one we’re used to — but could: they’re perfect together, the natural brininess of the clams tempered by the subtle sweetness of loofah. I knew I hit the jackpot when both Ma and Pa commented at length on how good the soup was.

I’ve featured clam soup before, where I incorrectly referred to the bivalve as a cockle (same order, different family). Despite its scientific (Venerupis philippinarum) and English names, this species of clam is not native to the Philippines but probably introduced here from China or Japan. Loofah is at least indigenous to Southeast Asia. When buying, choose the firm ones. Don’t slice sikwa too thin or they will turn soggy and slimy after prolonged contact with hot liquid (unless that’s your thing).

To make the soup, sauté sliced ginger, onion, and tomato (in that order), then add a splash of rice wine (if you have it) and boil for a minute before adding 3 to 4 cups of water and a tablespoon of fish sauce. Upon boiling, add clams and cover pot. Wait for clams to open, then stir in a teaspoon of sugar and a packet of hon-dashi (highly recommended if you have some). Taste soup; it won’t likely need salt, but if too salty, add more water. When to your satisfaction, add sliced loofah and spring onion greens, cover, and turn off heat. Let stand a few minutes before serving.

“Now this is more like it,” Ma had said. “How much did we pay for that soup again?”

“I’m not sure — ₱250?”

“Hisos!”

Hmmm… ₱30 for a Caltex of clams, ₱10 for loofah, and ₱30 for spices and condiments. Now there’s a good racket.