Squid two ways

In its natural environment, squid is a graceful, magnificent creature. Lying on a market counter, however, nothing looks sorrier. It’s the slime — more like the thought of having to handle it — that actually gets to me, else I would muster more enthusiasm for cooking nukos.

And yet it takes almost no time at all to do so. Take nilagtub. Some people insist that it is the only way to do justice to fresh squid. Basically a dark tinowa, lagtub needs little to no water, all the more to savor the sweetness of the squid’s juices. The trick is to switch off the heat once the soup comes to a boil, cooking the squid just so. No condiment of any kind, either (MSG is optional). This is no-frills cooking at its best.

The ideal time to buy nukos is late at night when the catch comes in. Here in our place, you will find vendors lining up with their pails and gas lamps at major intersections. One employee’s husband is a fisherman so we get the choicest specimens delivered to our doorstep. We have to clean them ourselves, though — the dark side of the deal, as it were. It’s messy, messy work for soup that tastes so clean.

Nukos Nilagtub

The only cleaning involved here is to remove the squid’s eyes and beak (locally referred to as “ngipon” or teeth). Market vendors will usually do this without prompting. The entrails are considered a delicacy and left intact.

• small squid, cleaned
• ½ cup water
• small knob of ginger, sliced
• 1 lemongrass bulb, smashed
• 1 medium red onion, quartered
• 1 spring onion, cut into 2-inch pieces
• 1 finger chili
• 1 dried bay leaf
• salt and pepper, to taste
• pinch of MSG (optional)

1. Boil water. Add ginger and lemongrass and let steep for a minute before adding red onion, spring onion, finger chili, bay leaf, and squid. Cover pan.
2. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, turn off heat. Season with salt and pepper. MSG is optional. Serve immediately.

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Once you’ve tried the lagtub, only then can you in all good conscience say that you still prefer squid done adobo-style. I will not take that against you; it’s like being made to choose between tinowa and fried fish: both are good, but together, better.

Having used up most of the smaller squid for the previous recipe, I sliced the rest so that my adobo cooked evenly. Whole is still better, obviously. Same principle applies: do not overcook. I have featured adobong nukos before, albeit made from a much bigger specimen (pounded to soften). The recipe below is more traditional.

Squid Adobo

I have purposely left out exact amounts for the vinegar and soy sauce, but as a rule, I use two parts vinegar to one part (sometimes less) soy sauce. For more heat, chop the chili.

• squid, cleaned
• 2 tablespoons oil
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1 medium red onion, sliced
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1 finger chili
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
• vinegar
• soy sauce
• pinch of sugar
• salt, to taste

1. Heat oil. Sauté garlic until slightly browned, then add onion, finger chili, and bay leaf. Sauté for another minute.
2. Add squid to pan. Sauté to coat with oil, then add vinegar. Leave to boil until the pungent smell has dissipated before adding soy sauce, sugar, and cracked pepper. Stir around a few times until sauce comes to a boil, salt to taste, then turn off heat to prevent the squid from cooking any further and turning tough. Serve.