Variations

Time was when a trip to Cebu meant checking out the latest “in” places. These days you are more likely to find me hanging out at the produce and international food sections at the supermarket. I can tell you, for example, that Metro Ayala is better stocked than Rustan’s or SM, although you have to keep an eye out for expiration dates.

In the meantime, my biggest concern is that Metro seems to have stopped carrying the Top Choice-brand fish sauce. I have tried other patis and none tastes as “clean.” Also, the peanut oil is packed in ever-smaller bottles. And when I inquire about kombu, the merchandiser directs me to the junk-food aisle. What the fu–? Oh. “I know where the Combos are,” I say. “I’m talking about Japanese seaweed.” Kelp, actually.

“Can you wait, sir? I’ll go check with seafood.”

“Never mind.” If it’s all the same to you (and I know it isn’t), I would rather buy seafood fresh at the public wet market. Rustan’s at least makes theirs look inviting. The worst I’ve seen, however, is at S&R. Come to think of it, there’s nothing there produce-wise that you can’t find someplace else at comparable quality or price — and that’s giving it too much credit already.

That said, I only purchase fruits, vegetables, and spices at the supermarket that I can’t get at a regular market. My go-to veggie purveyor now carries saluyot (jute) leaves and pre-cleaned taugi, and just yesterday told me she will soon have squash blossoms too. If that does not sound exciting to you, you obviously aren’t from around here. Our radish is white, not cherry red; local cucumber thicker and with more seeds than the “burpless” Japanese variety. Not necessarily better — just interestingly different.

I pickled them together, dim sum-style, with a boiled (then cooled) mixture of equal amounts water and apple cider vinegar, half of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Those floaters? Dried chili flakes and coriander seeds. For a more Japanese take, boil some dried wakame (also a seaweed) with the pickling liquid. I wouldn’t mention it if Metro Ayala didn’t have any.