05 April 2016

P is for panga, panghalwan, piquant

Barracuda jaw in spicy black bean sauce

Barracudas possess powerful jaws and teeth that serve them well as voracious marine predators. While attacks on humans are rare and never fatal, these fish, says Wikipedia, “display a disconcerting habit of curiously following divers and swimmers.” That, I assume, was how this one ended up on our table.

Speculation aside, panghalwan (as it is known locally) is good in tinowa — I prefer the head for that, or, to be more precise, the bonier parts thereof, as we’re into tinowa mostly for the soup and greens. The meatier panga (jaw) I usually fry, here served with a chili oil-based black bean sauce.

Panghalwan panga (barracuda jaw) in chili oil & black bean sauce

The dish looks haphazardly put together, but it hit all the right flavor spots: salty, sweet, and just spicy enough. Actually, it could have used some more sauce, the better to spoon over rice — bahúg, we call it. To make, heat up a quarter cup of chili oil. Sauté ginger strips until fragrant, followed by sliced onion and coarsely chopped garlic. When onions turn translucent, add two tablespoons each of soy sauce and salted black beans (drained of brine), a tablespoon and a half of sugar, and a third of a cup of water. Bring to a boil and season to taste (I used hon-dashi) before adding sliced red and green bell peppers. Pour sauce over fried fish and serve hot. Did I say “with rice”?

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