F is for fabulous fried fish fillet

Beer-battered barracuda. I hit this one out of the ballpark without being sure what I was dealing with. It was my first time to come across… “What’s this thing called again?” I asked the help. “Bat-og,” she’d said. They didn’t look to me the kind that figured in Pa’s approved list; obviously I had no hand in their procurement.

Come to think of it, I’m tired of second-guessing my father. We eat out and he’s okay eating all sorts of fish I have never heard of (because they’re not available locally). As for barracuda, I might have encountered them before but was not paying attention; they remind me of bawô (garfish, for the bug eyes and body shape — need I add he doesn’t eat those?).

Bat-og is pughad (firm-fleshed), ideal fried, grilled, as kinilaw, in clear soup, or stewed in vinegar. I hear people say that of other fish, too. “Well,” I tell them, “you don’t know Pa.” Hah! He was so happy to see those barracuda!

“You mean you eat that?”

“Of course. Why not?”

“Of course.”

So I made inún-unán with the smaller of the two. The dish earns a picture, otherwise it has so little vinegar in it as to almost be soup, but that is how you-know-who likes his (also with bitter gourd and eggplant, easy on the former). The bigger barracuda I filleted on my own and far from appealing to look at afterwards, but that was before the slices were coated and fried, and that is what I’m here to tell you about. This is not the kind of coating you get from commercially available breading mixes, and I’ve pretty much tried them all. I can confidently say that this version is the apex of my on-and-off experiments with batter. (In case you’re wondering about the fish, it was firm yet flaky, tender and flavorful.)

The batter is a combination of half a cup of cornstarch, a quarter of flour, a good pinch of salt, baking powder, baking soda, and half a cup of cold beer, whisked until free of lumps and rested for an hour or so in the refrigerator. Dredge seasoned fillets in flour, shaking off excess flour, coat with batter (whisk again before using, and don’t worry if the mixture seems thin), and deep fry until golden. The advantage of this batter is that it gives a delicate crisp and takes well to re-frying. Super easy to make from readily available ingredients, as well. What’s not to love? As for inún-unán, I’m not a fan of the dish, but I often hear friends rave about how great it is fried. If you like it that way, here’s a surefire way to make it better.

Beer-Battered Barracuda

Have the vendor fillet the fish (save the head/bones for delicious soup/stock). Before using, feel around the flesh with your fingers for extra bones that may remain to avoid a nasty surprise. Serve with fried potato wedges and you have fish and chips!

• barracuda, filleted and sliced
• salt and pepper

For the batter:
• ½ cup cornstarch
• ¼ cup flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ¼ teaspoon baking soda
• pinch of salt
• ½ cup cold beer


• extra flour, for dredging
• oil, for frying

1. Combine batter ingredients. Beat or whisk well until smooth. Store in refrigerator for at least an hour (or until using).
2. Season fish. Take each slice and dredge in flour, shaking off excess dust, then dip in batter (beat/whisk anew before using). Deep fry in hot oil until golden. Remove to plate with paper towel to drain off excess oil. Serve hot with vinegar or Tartar sauce.