Although I prefer mung bean stew rich with coconut cream, there is something to be said for the lean version. I had made its reacquaintance at a carinderia in Libagon, along the Maharlika Highway (or AH26, Philippine component of the Asian Highway network). Flavored with shredded bulis (bluefin tuna) and chock-full of kalamunggay leaves, the dish was comfort food at its best. That, and the pork ampalaya.
“You ate there?” Ma said.“Sure. Why not?” The place was clean and the al fresco dining area looked out onto Sogod Bay. True, the pancit was insipid, the pork kilawin chewy, and let us not even talk about that blasted videoke machine in the corner. Then it occurred to me what she was really on about.
“Oh, I don’t think they poison people there.”
Before you accuse my old lady of paranoia, I should mention that there is a very real fear of intentional poisoning among people here, and there are certain places that are quite infamous for it. I should also add that there is no documented evidence to back up such stories. Every now and then this or that person dies unexpectedly. “You know why?” “What?” “I heard that he ate something in Benit.” “Ah.”
Do I even believe this stuff? I’m skeptical, but I don’t take chances, either. In any case, I personally know two people who claim to have been victims, and they’re not the type to make fantastic claims; you can read about one such case here (including why I think poisoning has tourism potential). As a rule, I eat where I see a lot of people eating. “Especially DPWH personnel,” Jenny adds. “Ever heard of one getting poisoned?”
“No. Isn’t that a pity?”
But I digress. To make my version of the dish, sauté onion until wilted, add garlic and tomato, stir them around for a minute, then remove and set aside. Next, sliced ginger; I wait until they brown around the edges before adding mung beans (½ cup) and water (3½ cups). Once boiling, turn heat to low and let the beans simmer for 30 to 45 minutes or until soft and mushy. Meanwhile, fry up a handful of buwad bolináw (dried anchovies). Then add that and reserved spices to the pot and season with fish sauce, a teaspoon of sugar, and, of course, hon-dashi. To finish, some spring onion greens and lots of kalamunggay/moringa leaves, and cook for a minute or two more.
One thing definitely going for this plain version is that it does not involve a lot of rice in the package. With tinunuan, you are practically guaranteed to consume twice your usual share of dreaded carbohydrates. For those of us who need to keep a close watch on our blood sugar levels, that’s almost as good as poison. Need I mention too the gout factor in those beans?
Take better care of yourself now. Or at least die happy. I swear, sometimes I can’t tell the difference.
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